Durban, South Africa

Durban, a city with many juxtapositions. A shopping mall with marble floors and towering colesium-esq pillars that is bursting with supposed opulence, located only a few miles away from a sprawling township with a wandering cow on nearly every corner. The mind boggles.

I arrived within the fading days of winter that were warmer than many countries hottest summers. I’m lounging on the couch with the sound of hadida birds calling from the jacaranda tree just beyond the window on the second floor apartment belonging to friend from back home. He has spent more than 6 months in this ‘secure’ compound with its security gates and barred windows, and is going through the safety procedures that he illuminates all new arrivals with. It’s a matter of staying safe, being aware of your surroundings and taking necessary precautions at ALL times, outside the apartment and inside.

Taking that all into consideration and adopting a slightly altered perspective, life can somewhat go on as per usual. The four of us, my host, his two flat mates and myself, partake in many activities and see many sights within the seven days of my stay.

The events that stand out for me:

• Witnessing first-hand the awesomeness and majesty of a local choir practising for an upcoming show

• Sharing in a braii at a mutual friend’s engagement party with the dancing and merriment that ensued

• Enjoying pancakes at The View located in the Valley of a Thousand Hills (with a local vervet monkey keeping guard over our car)

• Viewing several and varied, locally created films at the Durban International film festival

• Meeting Sabelo and witnessing his amazing creative flare take shape before my very eyes as he painted a stunning African landscape within the space of half an hour.

• Meeting the amazing people that my host has become acquainted with during his time in Durban, where he has helped to establish a base from which inspirational youth peer educators are created in the fight against the spread of HIV Aids.

• Falling in love with the incredible local cuisine including babotie, millipup and malvapoeding

• Traipsing across the sandy Durban beaches after spending many hours perusing the souvenir stalls that litter the pavements along the coast (and buying many a trinket along the way)

• Playing shotgun over who’s turn it was to climb through the boot of the car to unlock the doors (thanks to the door locks having been broken as a result of an attempted break-in)

• And participating in a Vuk Africa tour with my host. Getting the chance to meet or guide Sebo, learning a smattering of Zulu, Ngiaphila (I am well), participating in a spiritual dance with a Sangoma (southern witch doctor) and dining at Mama Msizi’s house amongst the rolling hills within the township of Kwa Zulu Natal.

I was also amazed by the absolute redness of the setting sun as it descends through the smoke haze, which is always synonymous with pictures of Africa. There is also the surprisingly familiar smell of fire smoke that blankets the valley, which instantly transported me back to my childhood days of living Zimbabwe. Having very few memories of my time there I was quite surprised how familiar that smell was for me.

Overall, many memories were created that won’t easily be forgotten, and I owe most of it to the graciousness of my host, Paul. Thanks for everything. I only hope that all that Aromat that you fed me won’t kill me later in life ^-^ (given that it’s 80% MSG).